I took the laptop apart to the point that I can access the CMOS battery. Its not hard to do at all

#16
Posted 03 November 2014 - 06:33 PM

#17
Posted 03 November 2014 - 07:53 PM

Okay so after playing with the CMOS:
Take it out and letting it sit for a min, presing and holding pwr bttn for 30 sec, and (read that many people do this to reset bios) using something metal to connect the pos and neg prongs of CMOS battery together............. my laptop will no longer start...... at allll............. wont even light up when the plug is in...
#18
Posted 03 November 2014 - 08:01 PM

I did also swith the CMOS battery, I may have put a bad one in, and when I went to switch them back put the same one back in..... could this be causing the problems described above
#19
Posted 05 November 2014 - 02:14 AM

using something metal to connect the pos and neg prongs of CMOS battery together
Can I ask where you read this as it is inaccurate, removing the CMOS battery and pressing the power button will do no harm but it cannot be said the same for bridging electrical contacts with pieces of metal, many MBs have jumper caps that are moved to certain pins and back again for clearing the CMOS, they are not as common on notebooks due to the limited access the user has.
Tip
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#20
Posted 05 November 2014 - 02:24 PM

I read it while I was trying to do research, people said that it resets the BIOS to the factory default.
Do I have to replace the MB, or is there something that could fix this problem? I did look for jumper caps, although to no avail.
Thanks, I will remember that tip!
Edited by ProgramGeeks, 05 November 2014 - 02:24 PM.
#21
Posted 05 November 2014 - 04:49 PM

I have seen people using similar methods to try and clear BIOS passwords but that is another story.
Before considering replacing the MB spend a bit more time examining the present components such as the power button and board etc, the IT person initially said it was a bad CPU, that has been replaced and the computer after some work by yourself worked for two days and then died again, this suggests that it may never have been the issue in the first place.
You have said that there are no power lights at all now which means either the AC adaptor is bad or that there is a problem with the MB, does the AC adapter have a power LED on it and if so is it lighting up when it is turned on at the wall socket.
#22
Posted 05 November 2014 - 05:14 PM

That would be why I tried it, and I did it, laptop still turned on, tried it again, the laptop stopped turning on.
The AC adapter does have a light and when it is plugged in, the light turns on green.
Im aumming that the next thing you are going to say is that its the MB that is the problem.....
#23
Posted 06 November 2014 - 02:01 AM

If the residual current had been gotten rid of from the MB and capacitors etc by pressing the power button first the chances of damaging the MB or other components is greatly reduced.
If the AC adapter LED is lit up but there is no power LED lit up on the notebook it does suggest a problem with the MB I`m afraid, worth checking is the DC jack port on the MB, is it secure, if there is a pin in the centre of it is it straight and not loose etc.
Is the AC adapter the correct one for the notebook and do you have or can you borrow another one in case the one you have is faulty.
#24
Posted 06 November 2014 - 04:10 PM

I didn't get ride of the charge left in the MB.
What jack ar you talking about. I am a bit confused on what you are talking about.
The AC adapter is the correct one for my laptop. I do not have an extra AC adapter I can use.
#25
Posted 07 November 2014 - 04:33 AM

Not a good sign I`m afraid as you may have shorted something out
The DC jack port is where you plug the AC adapter into, see attachment.
See if you can borrow a suitable AC adapter just for testing purposes, do not try yours on another notebook in case it is faulty.
#26
Posted 07 November 2014 - 01:21 PM

No one that I know has an Acer laptop.
Also, why would the charger be the problem if the battery was fully charged when this happened?
#27
Posted 08 November 2014 - 04:53 AM

It does not have to be an Acer adapter as long as the amps and voltages + connection jack are the same, the specs are printed on the adapter.
Also, why would the charger be the problem if the battery was fully charged when this happened?
We had no way of knowing this + when troubleshooting either the battery or the AC adapter should be disconnected/removed as this is one way of ruling each item out as the cause, something that I did mention back in my reply #14.
#28
Posted 08 November 2014 - 04:10 PM

I will try and search for one, I might actually have one
Also, sorry I had forgot to mention that the battery was full in my previsous posts. Makes sense on why you would remove them.
#29
Posted 09 November 2014 - 02:27 AM

No worries and hopefully you will have another charger
#30
Posted 12 November 2014 - 09:13 AM

Unfortuantely I could not find another charger.
Also, I am a bit forgetful for a while, but I had forgoten to mention that when I played with the CMOS battery the last time, I hd forgoten to remove the battery pack...........
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